One Criteria by Beatrice Gutu

One Criteria by Beatrice Gutu

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One Criteria by Beatrice Gutu
One Criteria by Beatrice Gutu
The Power of Archives: How Curiosity Shapes Taste (+ My Top 5 Vintage Finds & Where I Found Them)

The Power of Archives: How Curiosity Shapes Taste (+ My Top 5 Vintage Finds & Where I Found Them)

Seeking out the exceptional: from Martin Margiela for Hermès to Yohji Yamamoto’s understated genius, uncovering timeless style through archival treasures.

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Beatrice Gutu
Mar 23, 2025
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One Criteria by Beatrice Gutu
One Criteria by Beatrice Gutu
The Power of Archives: How Curiosity Shapes Taste (+ My Top 5 Vintage Finds & Where I Found Them)
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We live in a world where our choices are increasingly dictated by algorithms. Luxury has become a mass-market phenomenon, and fashion, once an exclusive realm, has now fully integrated into pop culture. The focus has shifted from craftsmanship and creativity to newness, marketing, and “coolness.” Trends are no longer seasonal; they are weekly, sometimes even daily. In this cycle, clothes aren’t meant to be cherished; they are meant to be consumed, posted, and discarded before the next viral item takes over. Algorithms reinforce this. They don’t reward originality; they reward engagement. The more something circulates online, the more we see it and the more we are convinced it is what we should want. This is how personal taste gets flattened, reduced to whatever is trending in the moment. In our ever-accelerating world, the desire for something truly unique, something that feels curated and personal, has only grown.

Curiosity as the Key to Personal Style

Personal style, however, isn’t about rushing. It’s about curiosity, looking beyond the obvious, training your eye, and seeking out pieces with depth and history. I always remind myself of Miuccia Prada’s words: “Fashion is an instant language, but to develop personal taste, you need curiosity—curiosity about culture, history, and the world.” She’s absolutely right. The most stylish people don’t just consume what’s new; they look back, study archives, and refine their eye over time.

This is why I love collecting archive fashion and shopping for vintage, not just as a way to own something rare, but as a way to train my instincts. The hunt itself sharpens your sense of proportion, fabric, and construction in a way that passive scrolling never will. And when you find the piece, something that no algorithm would have suggested—it’s exhilarating. This is one of the reasons I decided to create this newsletter: to have a space where I can share the knowledge I’ve accumulated over the years, along with my personal observations and handpicked selections of unique vintage finds.

The Row Fall 2025 (on the left) Martin Margiela for Hermès Fall 1998 (on the right)
The Row hat (on the left) and Yohji Yamamoto vintage hat (on the right)

The Row often references Martin Margiela’s work for Hermès and Yohji Yamamoto, while Phoebe Philo frequently draws on historical designs. They have tapped into a desire for something deeper and more meaningful, offering pieces that resonate beyond the surface. Their approach to design, often rooted in archival references, creates a sense of rarity and uniqueness that feels like a refreshing antidote to the trend-driven cycle.

Phoebe Philo 2023 and Madame Grès 1970
Phoebe Philo sunglasses and Philippe Chevallier sunglasses from the 1960s

This ability to spot and appreciate these references and to understand the past is what shapes your taste. It’s not just about following what is in right now; it’s about looking at fashion through a different lens, one that values history, craftsmanship, and originality. It’s about going to the source, diving into archives, and understanding the essence of great design.

My Top 5 Vintage Finds & where I found them (PART 1)

This brings me to my personal journey of collecting. In the spirit of curiosity, I have spent years sourcing pieces that speak to me, that resonate because they represent something deeper than the latest trend.

Below, I’m sharing my top 5 vintage finds, the stories behind why I chose them, and where I scored them. From Martin Margiela’s iconic designs for Hermès to a rare Yohji Yamamoto top, a Prada crocodile bag I found for the price of a luxury wallet, and an incredible Azzedine Alaïa jacket, each one tells a unique story and holds a special place in my collection.

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